Wednesday, June 06, 2007
The pros and cons
my morning yoga class
the Taormina's and their lifestyle
The blue blue carabbean sea
The snorkling and discovering nature
The fact I paid very little for fotocopies
The good pizza of the restaurant Mananitas, la Famiglia and l'Espresso
Be able to have the kids under control just by jumping in the swimming pool by the house
The good ceviche at the beach restaurants
The winter in shorts
what I would not miss:
the mosquitos and the humidity (also at night, it is June and it is not pleasant to have dinner outdoor)
The "ladies" of Playacar
The too many SUVs around the streets
The fact they are new buildings everywhere and there are few trees left , making very unpleasant to walk around in the heat
The fake conservatism and the fake modernism of the people
The fact it is very difficult to have a real conversation that does not involve cleaning ladies, outdoor temperature and having your pictures taken at some uninteresting event.
I almost forgot the "topes", the ones of Playacar in particular. If you are not familiar with the term you will become once you set foot on Mexico soil. There are speed bumpers, there are an all variety: cemented little hills, sort of round metallic bump and the worst of all are like two consecutive little steps going up and down. If you just go at 1 km/h, you and your car still have to suffer a major annoyance. Every morning to get the kids to school I have 4 brand new Playacar topes, 1 metallic, 2 cemented hills, 1 more metallic. I think I am forgetting some...
Anyway it is always good to go and good to come back like in any vacation (short or extended!)
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
A mexican particularity
However, the Mexicans have also a problem relating to their space: they can't give the simplest directions. Even in Playa that is a rectangle with straight avenue with perpendicular streets, they are incapable of indicating a location but giving you the two coordinates.
This handicap is also officialized. You have an indication that says 20 km. to a certain location, then you turn the corner and it says 17 km. How the hell, just turning a corner is 3 km.?
We had to rely more on the tourist guide that the indication on the highway. Well having said that, we got there without really knowing the real distance and at the end of the day it did not matter. we can safely assume that 90% of the people driving have probably an appointment to which they are expected to be late anyway.
Monday, April 23, 2007
To Finish the trip...
We decide to add Mayapan to our list of Pyramids, after all it was the Maya capital when the conquistadores arrived. It is not really in our way, but after all the kids had already their playground so we can have one more pyramid!
We are the only visitor in Mayapan and it is really fun when you are with the Mayan Gods for yourself….
We have been in the car all morning so there is no way we are heading to Playa that day. We don’t want to go back to Merida so we decide to go to Progresso. Is the closest beach to Merida but according to the Lonely Planet not really worth the trip…unless you decide to go to this specific B&B.
We get to Progresso and it is ugly, sticky, and smelly. I almost loose my usual accommodative mood with “I told you so”, while Alain thought it was the Deauville of the Gulf of Mexico.
We remember the description of the B&B and it is truly an oasis in the ugliness of Progresso. We get a little separate two rooms apartment close to the pool, there is an enormous palapa under which there is a much needed bar and some cozy breakfast tables. Progresso after a margarita seems a good place to stop after all.
We manage to find a nice restaurant on the board walk and a town fair. The night is over, the kids are out and we are too.
Next morning, after a nice last dip in the pool, we are heading home with enormous relief from the other guests at the bed and breakfast that, after seeing our kids, feared that their vacation was over.
Ok now we are going back, the baby cats are waiting….
Campeche
At the hotel, there is an international meeting with high representatives of South American countries and high security around. We don’t seem too much of a threat, the terrorists in our family do not carry weapons (yet) so we go through security straight to our room to the pool.
The hotel has a great location: on the recently renovated Malecon and just at the entrance of Porta del Mar, short walk to the main plaza. Campeche was declared by Unesco Patrimony of Humanity so the colonial part has been extensively restored and, of course, the rest of the town is skippable.
Campeche is hot, so next day we tour the city on the little tramway so that were are not sunstroked. We get in this conversation with an American woman who owns a store and give us some inside on the Capechianos.
Not pretty people according to her : great place to visit horrible place to live especially for a foreigners, I believe her but somehow I thought she could be a little kinder… after all she is a guest!
Finally, in Campeche we find a new, safe a big playground right on the Malecon. Ok, I guess it was our turn to follow the kids around and making sure they didn’t get lost in the crowd.
After, all this intense day we decide to have dinner in this great restaurant right on the Zocalo, we overlooked the all plaza and it would have been great if Oscar had not decide to have a meltdown.
Next day we lounge at the swimming pool just being lazy, we were very active all these days. However, in the afternoon we decided to visit the two fortresses at the end of the both bay. From Fort S. Miguel there is beautiful view of the bay and has also a very intersesting Maya museum that I am only able to appreciate because Alain is watching the kids. Fort S. Jose has a maritime Museum with miniature boats ... more interesting for the kids!
We finished our tour of Campeche next morning we are out.
Pyramids and more Pyramids
Arriving, as usual, mid to late afternoon, we started the next morning our visit to the Pyramids. We begin the tourists tour with the sites of Kabah, followed by Sayl and Labna. There are all three in the Puuc Styles wich is very decorated and very different from Chichen Itza. We liked them all!
For a little freshness and shade (!!!!) we visited also the Loltun Caves… long around 2 km. with some rough canyons and of course we didn’t have the right shoes but was totally worth it!
At night the kids are rewarded with the usual tour in a battery powered car, they had a blast! Tikul has the cheapest tour of all... 5 pesos!
All they will remember from the trip is going to be slaloming among the very-kids-friendly Mexicans.
Next morning we leave our suite, three double beds room, and a bathroom with a enormous shower to visit Uxmal. Uxmal is an incredibly beautiful site and totally up to his reputation.
The kids follow patiently and after having tour the all site under the sun, the promise of a playground in contemporary style seems like a fair reward.
On our way to Campeche, we stopped in a middle of nowhere town where we eat the usual Porchuc (Alain manage to have the same dish two days on the row lunch and dinner), the only annoyance in town where the presence of this Mormon-evangelist-whatever they are, with women in very black polyester dress and men with jumpsuit with the look of retarded adolescents from some 50s movie.
Anyway, they were in town and end up eating at our restaurant. Very annoying God's creatures that try to convert this people that they seem very much in peace with the world already and in no need of help from some inbreeds with skin clearly not made for that kind of sun.
Let me tell us, the sun that day was strong, I think it was a sigh from God to this people to leave the Mexicans alone.
However, we made it to the hottest playground in the Yucatan Peninsula and even the kids had to surrender 5 minutes later. Finally, in our noisy but with a working AC car we proceed to Campeche.
Saturday, March 24, 2007
Valledolid Weekend

You can bet in Mexico every month there is some kind of vacation...March 21st is one, I think they celebrate the beginning of Spring...well after a long cold winter it is normal (!) . Anyway they move the holiday to a Monday so that the well off population of Mexico can take a long weekend.So here we are en route to Valledolid that we visited 10 years ago when the kids were still in the "planet of the non-born kids". Very charming colonial town about 2 1/2 hours away from Playa. We get, I think, the best room of the hotel with full view on the square just accross the street from the main church. The hotel "Meson del marques" is an old colonial building with a great internal courtyard.
Next day we went to visit the ruins of Ek-Balam...great archeological site with the pyramids almost attached to each other and in the middle of the jungle. We also climb up the main Pyramid with the kids, they stopped 3/4 of the way and we go up to the top (not both at the same time!) the view from up is spectacular...this Maya knew what they were doing.
We proceed to Tizimin, really just because the guide said there is a great pizza place (to make sure the kids would eat), but forgot to mention that the pizza is prepared only at night. So out of desespoir, we buy incredible fresh bread and other cakes and we go to the local park and do what the Tiziminian do: take a stroll, let the kids run at the playground and look a the sorry looking animals in very little cages. The best part been the cement slide and for Oscar borrowing the skateboard of a kid and almost breaking his neck.
Next day, we were not planning it, but we decided to revisit Chichen-Itza and then you realize how much your memory fades over the years. I remembered the main pyramid but I had not really recollection of all the other structures around to the point hat I think there were not open to the public. (To be checked)
Even if hyper-touristic it is totally worthed. The trick is too get there early so to avoid the crowd. We don't really get tired to see ruins, it is not like back in NY we will get the chance to see archeological site! Plus it is great exercise for the legs, next day you really feel it.
For the kids the highlight of the trip was renting the battery powered cars in Velledolid square and go around like crazy trying to avoid any human being that had the bad idea to come their way.
We can not go without going to see the two cenotes recommended, not impressive but still nice to take a look.
We are back in Playa with our new buildings everywhere..it was good to breath a little history.
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
Playa Society
It is not about meeting new people it is about seeing the same people!
On the top of it your picture get printed on the paper and there you are a playa celebrity or better someone in the "inner" circle.
After 8 months in Playa I realize I could not go somewhere without meeting someone that I know and that knows of me...how could people manage to have extra-marital affair???
Well I guess they go to Colosio (the poor neighbourhood), at least the men, and before they know they have impregnated a 20 years old that hopes to get married to the well-off guy and move to the nice neighbourhood!
It is strange to see how this fishing village where people would move to for a different type of life it is becoming this little bourgeois enclave.
The kids have to follow the trend, going to the right school, right after-school activities and right friends. Well all you want is that are not showing up with a Colosio partner....let me tell you very little chance that it is going to happen!
The "help" comes mainly from Chiapas, they need to leave their ID at the gate of Playacar when they come and clean houses and attend kids. They speak and incomprensible Spanish to me, they are mainly nice and sometimes have no idea how to clean and sometimes they don't show up but there is nothing to argue or to say, they work for little money and they retain the freedom of having little and needing little! I don't think they have mortgages to pay...
The rule of thumb is the whiter you are the richer you are...only 8% of the population is white in Mexico and they are all in government, in business, and in parties!
In Playa they are the foreigners which make it a little confusing but basically they are a bunch of people as my grandfather used to say : they want to fart higher than their behind (loosly translated from French).
Having said that we are glad to have come here, to have a winter with no cold and a time to think about where we went to be, and above all show the kids that we are in our 40s but still adventurous and fun (expecially me!).
Wednesday, March 07, 2007
Merida and around

Believe or not after 6 months we made it outside the borders of Quintana Roo and went for an "adventure" to Yucatan State. Merida is the kind of city you want to visit in the winter with 80 degrees but with little humidity vs. in summer 90 degrees with 200% humidity.So here we go in direction to the colonial city, we got in a hotel in the center that was recommanded but not really our taste: a once to be grand hotel that was suffering a lack of renovation. We stayed the first night and then we moved to this incredibly charming convent restored in a hotel.
We spent our first day in Merida visiting the Centenial Park, where there is a zoo and all kind of "small people" attractions. The was a large variety of animals confined in small spaces, the only good part is that M & O got to see the zebra and giraffe very close. We were not trying to be politically correct here!
Next day, we went to Celestun crossing little forgotten towns with "Big Yellow Station" (very important detail for O). Celestun is kind of forgotten too if it were not for the natural reserve close by where entire community of pink flamingo and pelicans are waiting for the visitors. I should not forget to mention that Alain got stuck litteraly in the mud in the dead forest in the reserve.
In this democratically family of ours: the first day was dedicated to the kids, second day a choice for everybody, third day was supposed to be for us. We got to see all there is to see in Merida which is basically around the Central Square. The Cathedral, the Museum, another building with paintings representing the history of Mexico and the house of Montejo that has become a bank!
Then there is the famouse Montejo Avenue with beautiful villas, it is a mini-Champs Elysees without the charm.
The saturday night is very lively for people that don't have 5 years old following asleep normally at 8. But in our way to the hotel, carrying the two animals, there were bands and people dancing in the streets.
We also voted Cafe Cabana the best capuccino in town and the waffle discovery for the kids.
Lunch and dinner were a little thougher except in Celestun were the fish was delicious.
It is Monday already so on our way back Home we stopped at Izamal, the yellow city, where the oldest convent in Mexico is situated and the city is all painted in yellow. Very picturesque!
Monday, February 05, 2007
Happy 2007
It has been a very long while, but we had a lot of coming and going of friends and family and there was no time for the blog! Plus, now I am working on raisingthem so my free time is GONE. I am still retaining my hour of mental sanity at yoga.
Car Wash
Let’s start with the most important task of the day: we wash the car after 6 months of sand, thunderstorm and various encounters with puddles of different shape and depth. I realize that in itself is not incredible news but if your neighbors have two always spotless SUV you feel you have to make an effort. It is kind of funny that they have someone cleaning their car frequently and in between the man of the house does some extra cleaning himself!
Well we have our beat up WV Pointer, the least we can do was sponge her up a little.
The top favorite beaches of the moment
We spent today at the beach in Paamul where we had not been for a while (sorry to have to remind you that we are in February and we are in the 80s. Matthias keeps on saying that we are in the spring, then summer but winter never comes to his mind.)
Over the months we have discovered the beaches of Tulum, Los Arrecifes with an unpretentious restaurant, small cabanas and bungalow is a top favorite. The place was adviced to me by Camilla (Italian neighbor long time resident of Tulum). It is a great place to be, relax and take super long walk (the beach is 10 km. long). The atmosphere in Tulum is a lot more ecological and cool than Playa and all you see is palm trees and sea…how awful!
Now they also add a trampoline…there is a tree house and swings…say no more…is M & O favorite as well.
First guests O and M size
December 2, 2006
Steve spent an American vacation with us that means a long weekend…the time was short and we try to make the most out of it and make sure he left with the taste of American prohibitionism (smoking a cuban?) and a little overview of Playa.
First we had a week busy with a failed adoption of a baby cat. A little kitten than we discovered 3 weeks old that become for 5 days 9and nights) part of our household. She was cute, determined and very vocal. I took her to the vet, we bought milk, bottle and all the paraphernalia and then the mother come and claim her! I was not home but Alain open the front door and the mother heard her baby calling she come pick her up and took her. This “overprotective mother”! Ah!
We were sad to see her go, our Benny and especially Isa could not believe that finally they had possession of the house again, she did not like the arrival of the intruder….
We went through our first Halloween in Mexico full of American flavor. We went trick and threat in the residential neighborhood in Playacar, Matthias as a Knight and Oscar has a Pirate, even if he kept on saying that he was Oscar and not a pirate!
In Xcaret the eco-park close by home they were organizing a free cultural event about the day of the dead tradition. They were people dressed up as dead people, crafts, food and shows. Well we were pretty exhausted.
The first week of November was a pretty rainy week and the “nonni” arrived. The indoor activities are limited at the movie and indoor playground activities.
On Saturday finally we made it to Tulum, the archeological site is in a beautiful spot overlooking the cost but we had such a different memory of that visit. The place was a lot more organized, but we got there with the tourists and most of that archeological construction could not be climbed. We did not even swim at the beach down the there, way too many tourists! So we went to Playa Paraiso that really deserve its name! Splendid beach with coconut tree and a fancy beach club.
Saturday, December 02, 2006
It has been a while!
I little geo-social history of Playacar: they build Playacar Phase I attached to Playa del Carmen as an exclusive residential area with beautiful villas overlooking the beach. Well it is at least great for the villas right on the beach, the one on the back have no panorama been the terrain very flat. Later they developed Phase II, attached to Phase I, built around a golf course. There are villas, apartments, row houses (like ours), for residents and tourists. The hotels are by the beach and the residents of Phase II have free access to the beach and the facilities of the hotels.
So the beach club of Phase I was initially for the residents of the Sunset Fisherman Time Share. Not having enough business with them they open up the place to people from outside (but no one knows… and we are not about to tell!).
November 12, 2006
First we had a week busy with a failed adoption of a baby cat. A little kitten than we discovered 3 weeks old that become for 5 days 9and nights) part of our household. She was cute, determined and very vocal. I took her to the vet, we bought milk, bottle and all the paraphernalia and then the mother come and claim her! I was not home but Alain open the front door and the mother heard her baby calling she come pick her up and took her. This “overprotective mother”! Ah!
We were sad to see her go, our Benny and especially Isa could not believe that finally they had possession of the house again, she did not like the arrival of the intruder….
We went through our first Halloween in Mexico full of American flavor. We went trick and threat in the residential neighborhood in Playacar, Matthias as a Knight and Oscar has a Pirate, even if he kept on saying that he was Oscar and not a pirate!
In Xcaret the eco-park close by home they were organizing a free cultural event about the day of the dead tradition. They were people dressed up as dead people, crafts, food and shows. Well we were pretty exhausted.
The first week of November was a pretty rainy week and the “nonni” arrived. The indoor activities are limited at the movie and indoor playground activities.
On Saturday finally we made it to Tulum, the archeological site is in a beautiful spot overlooking the cost but we had such a different memory of that visit. The place was a lot more organized, but we got there with the tourists and most of that archeological construction could not be climbed. We did not even swim at the beach down the there, way too many tourists! So we went to Playa Paraiso that really deserve its name! Splendid beach with coconut tree and a fancy beach club.